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Plug Fishing
TIPS
Steelhead Plug Fishing Part 1
STEELHEAD PLUGS & DIVERS 101.1
PLUGS and DIVERS 101 Part A
PLUGS AND BAIT DIVERS - 101.1 By Wes HopplerPREFACE This is essentially the same article that had a lonely existence on our old web site. I have made some edits, but not too many. I chose to write a few additions under the “Plugs 201” tab instead. Plugging is nowhere near the mainstay it once was in steelheading. Side drifting and float fishing have changed the mix considerably. For me, I find this to be a plus. To the extent that I am going to be plugging, I would rather come behind someone who has not made that type of presentation -– my offering will be something new to those fish, if in fact, they even presented to the same fish I am targeting. Plugs still catch fish, and possibly a disproportionate number of large fish. To me, only spoons offer the same potential to elicit a strike from a big fish. The traditional “straight-down-the-rails” plugging technique can offer the same head-on presentation as side drifting,– only it can be done at a slower pace with a more provocative offering. And if you find yourself in a big, really wide drift that is 3-6 feet deep with the whole thing moving at walking speed, there is no method to compare to raking it with plugs. So here is the original article. The gallery has some updates to it, and the 201 tab will have some additional information shortly.INTRODUCTION I am an avid plug fisherman, and thoroughly enjoy it. I am accomplished "plug puller" but not an expert. There is a lot to know and understand about which plug bodies work well in which water conditions and what colors are better choices for particular river height, water color, lighting conditions and temperatures. And, like so much of steelheading, knowing all of that will not do you much good if you cannot present the offering well. Plugs are most often fished from boats, although they can be used in plunking and may be cast as well. They may also be delivered from the bank with a sideplaner. This article focuses on fishing plugs from boats, specifically drift boats, but you may find some value in it if you fish plugs from a sled or from the bank. Plug fishing is a great way to get someone who has never fished for steelhead into a fish. This is not because the method is foolproof or automatic, but rather because the skill and knowledge of the oarsman can be extended to the novice more easily than many other methods and the strike is usually rather, uh, "obvious". The take on a plug can be one of the more spectacular events in one's fishing experience. That being said, the productivity of plugging and the enjoyment for all members of the party is significantly increased when the fisher folk in the front of the boat know what they are doing. Foremost, this entails learning to recognize when a plug is fouled or hung up and how to deal with it quickly and efficiently. Secondly, how to properly deploy plugs rapidly. This can be essential to success when you are trying to hit the head of a hole in low water conditions as you enter from a riffle or try to pick some small pocket in a rock garden. At times, repositioning rods to aid in presentation can be of great aid. There is another aspect of plugging from a drift boat that I personally enjoy - the rowing of the boat. I generally enjoy this labor of love and continue to improve my technique and presentation. It is an art form, one that I have yet to truly master (others that I fish with can still put me to shame with their superior technique.) On a miserable day when the wind is blowing and the fish are nowhere to be found, sitting in the rowers seat can be a burden. However, on a bright sunny day, the fish are just a bonus. Anyway, what follows is information that will get you pointed in a direction that has worked for at least one other person. I have not given some of my deeper secrets away. Hopefully, if you experiment with this type of steelheading, you will invent/discover your own secrets. If you already fish with plugs, there still may be a tip or trick or two that you will find useful.Good luck.
Basic Plug Setup
PLUGSRods:7 ½ - 8 ½ footSensitive TipStrong Back Personal choice - Lamiglas G1000 8 foot Medium Action - a no frills approach, but perhaps not the best for very small plugs or very soft water as the tip is not that sensitive. Lamiglas, Loomis and others make special plug rods, some have fiberglass tip sections for increased sensitivity, allowing for a greater ability to “read” the action of the plugs. If you opt for a specialty plug rod, consider getting one with a magnum taper. Some of the lighter plug rods are fairly difficult to handle a large fish on, being both short (less that 7’'6"” ) and very flexible, giving you very limited leverage, especially if the fish gets under the boat. Reels: "Good quality level wind" reel with a smooth drag and at least 125 yd of 14lb line capacity.Line lengths: 40 - 65 feet - Reel to beginning of leader - Short in rock gardens, small pockets and "seamy" water. Longer in major pools and areas with straight flows. In most cases you want all plugs deployed at exactly the same length, where current changes direction, such as where a fast current flows into a cliff or a log jam and changes direction, you may want to run one shorter to avoid line tangles. Same may apply in boily, seamy water. PlugsWiggle Warts/ Brad’s Wigglers: Pee Wee Wart / Brad’s Li’l Wiggler: Might be good for low water Wee Wart / Brad’s Wee Wiggler: Best plug for ultra slow water - will not run well at faster speeds Wiggle Wart / Brad’s Wiggler: Slow to medium water - good "Bass Master" (i.e. casting for silvers) Mag Wart / Brad’s Magnum Wiggler: Good plug for low visibility or big waterHot Shots: 25: Best suited to soft, high water conditions or big water 35: Very good all around plug, good action in slow water, stable in faster water ½ oz Special Edition (SE) (discontinued): Best suited to medium flows ¼ oz Special Edition (Wee SE) (discontinued): Excellent low water plug 40: Similar to Wee SE but no rattleTadpollies: Clatter Tad: Arguably the best all around plug for steelheadColors and Water Conditions High Color/Low light: Painted/fluorescent - Cop Car, Clown, Hot pink Luminous - Green/glowDaylight with 1.5 feet or less of visibility: Metallic pink/black head (aka Dr. Death) Chrome and orange Peacocks, dark metallic (blue) Solid Metalic Pink, if the sun is brightHeavy Fuzz 2-3 feet of visibility: Gold/flame, Metallic Green, Blue Pirate, Metallic Blue and ChromeFuzzy 4-5 feet of visibility: Green Pirate, Gold Magician, Cop CarGin Clear: Cop car, Black with metal flake, Gold Magician, Metallic red, Metallic blue, Grey ghost Many colors work into the next clearest category - these are just some ideas to try. Water temperature also affects selection - colder temps require more color and flash, warmer temperatures require more subtlety. Warmer water can allow reductions in size. Rattles can and should be used in most situations - exceptions, optional in clear water and using a #40 hot shot, no rattle, on heavily pressured fish. Be creative and develop some patterns of your own. Lure tape (small additions so as not to destroy action), spray paint, lure coat, permanent markers and air brushes can all be used to customize plugs. Black bills can pay big dividends on the right plug.Tuning: Tune your plugs. Unfortunately, some plugs cannot be tuned properly either due to manufacturing flaws or damage suffered in a battle or strike. General rule, bend/twist the eye towards the "low" side of the Plug (opposite to the way it is running off course.) Hooks: Most plugs come equipped with hooks that should be thrown away. (25's and 35's ok) Treble hooks are slightly "stickier" than single siwash, but single siwash tend to hold a bit better. For siwash hooks use stainless steel Mustad hooks. (Gamakatsu siwash hooks are brittle and a good number of them break during crimping.) Size compatible with plugs -2/0 for medium and large plugs (3/0 on some), 1or 1/0 for smaller plugs. For trebles, use Gamakatsu, VMC or other high quality hooks. Sizes 3 to 1 for medium and larger sized plugs. Small plugs are better off with single siwash. The modern thing to use these days for a non-treble hook is one of the sickle hooks. Storage: Store your plugs so that their finishes are protected!
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PLUGS and DIVERS 101 Part B
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Plugs and Bait Divers 101.1 cont. Divers: Use a Brad’s Diver or medium size Storm Hot N' Tot, painted black - Not Rattle Tots or Rattle Tot bodies. The Storm lure line has been altered substantially in the market. You may find one of the old original Storm units, but be safe, avoid the confusion and go with a Brad’'s Diver - – Look for the straight metal bill. Leaders: Nominally 2.5- 4 feet, adjust as conditions dictate.Bobbers: Use Spin and Glo's or Flash and Spins in Sizes 10-4. If you use large bobbers such as a #4 Flash and Spin, place 2 small split shot 1 inch in front of the bobber to help overcome buoyancy.Beads: Use 2 beads with a larger one towards the hooks.Hooks: Use a pair of 1/0's or 2/0's most of the time, bobber size and shrimp size will dictate adjustments. If you are using eggs as bait, a single hook should be used. If you are fishing where you are going to release fish, use a single hook and think twice about using divers and shrimp at all in high water. Sometimes, the first day a river is coming into shape the fish can be very agressive toward shrimp behind a diver and it might be best to pass on it, or use your imagination about another offering in place of the shrimp. This seems to be less of an issue in moderate water conditions.A Word of Warning: A pair of bait trailers that run afoul of each other can produce the Most Amazing tangles you have ever seen! Watch them closely, do not run them (at least not close together) in boily, seamy water or where current direction changes abruptly. They are generally more prone to hanging up on the bottom than plugs and are not well suited to fishing rock gardens, at least not shallow ones. The rigging for bait divers shown below includes a plug snap on the main line and one on the leader at the belly swivel. These can be immensely helful for quickly sorting out tangled bait trailers and returning to fishing quickly. Just unsnap the tangled elements to assist in detangling - – just be sure you know what is actually still attached to the rod before you start to throw things back in the water!Worm Set Ups: You can also use a bait trailer rig with ta pink worm. A few changes to rigging are in order. Drop your leader size down to 8-10 lbs so that the worm's action is increased. You must use worms that will float or they will be constantly hung up in all but the deepest water. A small spinning bobbler will add a little attraction and help keep you worm out of trouble (always a good thing). A single, smaller hook (size 1 or 1/0) with the worm threaded on the leader is the way to go. Bobber Suggestions: Use Mylar wings in medium visibility particularly if the water is cold - added flash. Use black wings or white wings in cloudy water/low light. For high visibility conditions use small bobbers with most any wing, although white seems to work well. Colors - painted finishes in poor visibility - flash and spins with black wings in rainbow, green rainbow and black rainbow are personal favorites, sizes 6 and 4. Also try orange scale or clown spin and glo's with white wings or red tiger with black wings. Medium visibility most anything goes - each river can seem to have its own particular best. Painted finished and metallics both work in these conditions. Low and clear, try pinks, metallic red, clowns, perhaps even some black and white combos
Basic Diver Setup
So What Now?Tips and Techniques Like other styles of fishing for steelhead, some of the same trends hold for pulling plugs and trailers.High water - work the soft edges near shore, where plunker's gear really is.Steelhead green and dropping - do not miss the last half of the hole. Low water - hit the very head of the hole, also look for pluggable riffles- you can catch fish in 2-3 feet of water. Fish dwell in places other than the "slot". Obviously, that is not the top choice in high water, but even in steelhead green conditions, fish will hang on the shoulders where medium current meets slow water, often at the very edge of the depression that ultimately forms the slot. Even when the fish should be in the slot by water conditions, heavy fishing pressure may push them to other locations. Often, fish hang out in structurally nondescript places, where current speed and surface chop are the drivers. Look for flats that are 3-6’ deep, with walking speed current and a broken surface. And perhaps the best water of all is the kind that has a dancing chop on it,– the kind that chuckles when your boat is over it. Side channels can have some very nice, but small, pockets in them that hold fish and are excellent to plug. Log jams and brush piles are your friends, although they can eat plugs if you do not read them right. The face of log jams is always a good place to try but you will have to get close enough to get into the scour pocket or around some debris cover. Plugs rock in rock gardens. In pools, work the rocks. ALWAYS PRESS TO THE TAILOUT - right up to the beginning of the riffle. Fish may back down the drift as your plugs advance, at the tailout the have to make a choice - flee over the tailout or strike. If three boats have just worked an area the same way with no results, try another approach - fish the shoulder not the slot, fish the left shoulder instead of the right, fish the rock instead of the logjam, fish the side channel instead of the main flow. Do not be afraid to plug really fast or really slow water depending on the conditions. Unless you are fishing first water, looking for just the aggressive fish, crawl down the drift slowly. I have never really measured my speed, but it strikes me that something like 10 ft per minute may even be a bit fast. Check leaders thoroughly after every fish on or hang up -– same for hooks Make sure that the sharp, tag end of the plug snap is away from the bill of the plug. Presentation is the key, particularly in a drift boat. If there is a feature you want to work, set up on it early. This ensures the best presentation. Generally, pick a line and work it. Particularly in the smaller rivers and streams, where the holes/drifts/runs are well defined and likely holding water, for the given conditions, is reasonable to identify. A bit of side-to-side motion is ok to aid in lingering and stinking up the place so as to engage a reluctant steelhead. Do not rake the plugs - sweeping side-to-side more than 2-3 feet. Learn how to crab row the boat - This moves the boat from side to side without yawing. The exception to the presentation above is when you find yourself in a big area of uniform holding water on a flat, with – the 3-6’ deep, walking-speed water with some color in the water. Then a lot of side to side raking is warranted and authorized. Do what works for you, but do what it takes to get all of the plugs deployed at the same distance from the boat (see below). This improves the chance for a strike as the front of plugs descends on the fish. With the plugs all together, if a fish shies away from one, there is a better chance that it will encounter a nearby plug, possibly triggering a strike. Use float stops that are made out of thread as line markers. This will help your front seat partners get the lines out quickly and aid in communications between the rower and the folks handling the rods. Alternatively, figure out how much line is let out by one of pass across the real spool –- that is how many feet of line go out as the position of line leaving the spool goes from one side of the spool to the other. Then do the math based on how much line you want out and call for X passes. On Rod Holders, Rod Positions and Setting the Hook: Rods should be pointed close to straight forward (at least if there are only two deployed) with the tips slightly elevated. Avoid the CB antenna look with your rods pointed at the sky. For three rods, you can try three across the front, but that can get cluttered and things like heaters may be a problem. Alternatively, the third rod can be back on either side, a bit forward of the oar locks, again at a relatively flat angle although heavily splayed to the side. I really think rod holders are the way to go. The rod tips do not move around, allowing the rower to "read" the action and provides consistency in presentation. It also helps in the number one problem with plugging - hook sets that are made too early, taking the plug away from the fish. The majority of strikes on plugs are quite savage by steelheading standards (it is one of the thrills of plugging.) Most of the time, the fish will take the plug and turn and run down river. The hook can be seated with a short snub, or by putting moderate rod pressure on the fish when it runs. Avoid the over-the-shoulder hook set on a running fish, no line will stand up to it. Some experts say to leave the rod in the holder until line is being taken. I don't go that far, but it is important to sense what is going on at the other end of the line to know when to set the hook. There are some exceptions to this. For whatever reason, steelhead may short strike a plug. This is usually seen as a single (sometime double) dip of the rod tip of 1-2 inches with normal plug action returning immediately. This happens more often in cold-water situations and rising water. When this is occurring, you're only hope is to try and set the hook immediately. If you are using plugs consider changing over to a bait trailer, the fish might hold it slightly longer. Strike Types: Classic - Two or three nods and a surge - Wait to set the hook. Big Fish, Slow Pull - The rod bends over hard and slow and stays down. Set the hook and hold on! Slack Liner - Usually a sharp jerk followed by nothing (no plug action). Grab the rod and real like a maniac, the fish is probably already under the boat and heading for the next drift upriver. Is there a trout on that line? - Sometimes that is all it looks like, a little funky action on the rod tip as the steelhead holds your plug in its mouth, pondering what to do next. By the time you investigate, it is time to set the hook.Rod Holders: Regular Fish On style rod holders will work fine. However, I believe that systems like Boe's Rod holders or systems that utilize Rod Readies work better. If you are using Fish Ons, try stepping your reel up onto the front edge of the cradle to facilitate rod removal in response to a strike.Miscellaneous Tips: Watch for loss of action on the plug. If not accompanied by a strike, it usually means the plug is fouled or hung up. Get on this ASAP so that you can deal with it before it winds up behind or worse, under the boat. Realize that if you hang a plug and it gets behind you, and the boat is between the plug and the rod, bad things are going to happen. Also, on rare occasion a fish will just hold on to a plug or bait trailer and do nothing, so get right on the loss of action. Avoid setting the plug out with the line stopped at the edge of the spool. A hard strike and run can bury the line into the spool and result in a break off. Drags should initially be set medium firm. This will set the hook automatically if the fish starts running before you set the hook, while enabling the fish to run without breaking the line. Plugs vs. Bait Trailers: In high dirty water, I will usually start with plugs. If nothing happens, I will run a plug and a bait trailer, or a pair of bait trailers. On certain rivers, I will start with trailers because experience has shown it to be the ticket. In medium conditions, I will typically go with plugs, because they should work and are less bothersome than bait trailers. If the fish are under a lot of pressure, I may switch to bait trailers. Also, bait trailers may get the nod if I think the fish I am on have been hold up for some time. In clear water, or low clear water conditions, I will go straight for the bait trailers. Bait trailers rule in low, clear water. Plugs are better in grabby rock gardens and very fast water. Bait trailers work well in medium to slow water. Good Luck!
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Steelhead Plug Gallery
STEELHEAD PLUG GALLERY
Hot Shot 25 Cop Car
Hot Shot 35 Blue Peacock
Hot Shot 35 Green Glow
Hot Shot 35 Green Glow Hot Tail
Hot Shot SE Gold Fire Top
Hot Shot SE Metalic Pink Black Head
Hot Shot Wee SE Gold
Hot Shot 40 Clear Mylar Insert
Wee Wiggle Wart Gold Flame Top
Wiggle Wart Blue Pirate
Mag Wart Flourescent Pink
Clatter Tad Metalic Pink Black Head
Tadpolly Clown
Clatter Tad Metalic Blue Black Back
Clatter Tad Nickle Plate Blue Scale
Tadpolly Rainbow Trout
Clatter Tad Black Scale and Bill
Clatter Tad Green Scale Black Bill
Grey Ghosts
Kwikfish K10 Gold Digger
Storm Hot n Tot Bait Diver
Marginal Plug Storage
Plugs Strored Well for Travel
Hot Shot 25 Cop Car
Hot Shot #25 Cop Car
The #25 hot shot is a good plug for either high water or big water. Its size gives it significant "presence". It runs well in slow to medium water, although if won't dive that deep in very slow water due to the buoyancy of its large body. This can make it run well in near shore seams during high water. It can be run in faster water and it will remain reasonably stable, although it will cause a lot of drag on a medium weight rod. The cop car pattern can be a good pattern in low visibility conditions - featuring a painted surface, strong contrast between the black head and white body, and the black head silhouettes well. The cop car pattern is very versatile and productive. It can work well in low visibility, but also works well in clear conditions where it is not too "loud" in color. This split personality is shared by dark metallic plugs (purple and dark blue) and black w/ glitter patterns. I attribute this to these patterns' abilities to provide a good silhouette in dirty water and a subdued presence in clearer conditions.
Hot Shot 35 Blue Peacock
Hot Shot # 35 Blue Peacock
The #35 hot shot is a pretty good all-around plug. It has enough size to still give it a substantial "presence" in a drift. It is stable in moderate to swift flows, and still has good action in slower flows. It is not my first choice in limited visibility, as I generally opt for something a little bigger, but with the right pattern it can still produce under these conditions. An excellent plug for medium water conditions (2.5-5 ft visibility) but small enough not to terrorize fish in clearer conditions. An excellent choice for plugging shallower drifts with moderate flows, as it seems to foul the bottom less than most under these conditions. The peacock pattern has been discontinued, although you will find it around from time to time (clearance bin/online). It is an interesting pattern, working well in a broad range of visibility conditions. The dark blue back and black side markings help it in low visibility, as does the orange painted underbelly. It has also produced in moderate to clear water late in the season for natives. Note the use of the swivel with the siwash hook. Use robust swivels that can stand the torture of a big fish. Do not be misled by the strength ratings of swivels in this application, as the stress will not always be directed down the axis of the swivel. A rolling fish can get the combination of the plug, swivel and hook into some pretty contorted arrangements. Also, use a swivel with big enough eyes to allow free movement of the hook and swivel itself without binding. The split ring has been removed and the swivel attached directly to the tail screw eye to shorten the distance between the hook and plug.
Hot Shot 35 Green Glow
Hot Shot # 35 Green Glow
#35 Hot Shot in Green/Glow. This pattern has worked well in moderate to clear visibility in low light conditions. Sadly, another discontinued pattern. A fine choice to put out before it gets light while you are getting situated in the morning. This pattern was replaced with a similar "Hot tails" pattern. Some have reported success with it in low clarity water conditions during the day.
Hot Shot 35 Green Glow Hot Tail
Hot Shot # 35 Green Glow Hot Tail
#35 Hot Shot in Green/Glow Hot Tail. Same applications as the previous plug, the Green/Glow. Sadly, even this pattern has been discontinued, but you can find either of them from time to time in the secondary market / clearance bin.
Hot Shot SE Gold Fire Top
Hot Shot SE Gold Fire Top
The Hot Shot SE (Special Edition ½ oz.) is yet another plug no longer in production, but still fairly available in the secondary market and on some store shelves. A bit more finicky than previous plugs, it can have trouble in fairly fast water. It works well in the mid -range of current speeds. As with the #25, its volume can inhibit its ability to dive in slow water. A great plug for when you want something bigger to combat poor visibility. As to the pattern, it works very well in "steelie green" conditions for 2-4' of visibility. This pattern has also been supplanted with a "Hot tails" / Gold Digger pattern in the Luhr Jensen lines, but is factory available in the Wiggler/Wart lines. The silver / fire pattern works well in lower visibility/lighting conditions.
Hot Shot SE Metalic Pink Black Head
Hot Shot SE Metalic Pink Glitter Black Head
Hot Shot SE metalic pink glitter black head. This is a homemade pattern that was not available from Luhr Jensen. Metallic pink with black head is factory available from other manufacturers and is an excellent pattern for low to moderate water clarity. This pattern is also known as "Doctor Death" for its exceptional effectiveness. Note the hook configuration. This arrangement helps the plug to dive a little better by moving the hook weight forward and reducing the drag on the tail of the plug. It also places the hook closer to the tail of the plug.
Hot Shot Wee SE Gold
Hot Shot Wee SE Gold Magician
The Wee SE is an excellent low water plug. From a production/availability stand point, it is now considerably more difficult to find than the ½ oz. SE. It runs well in slow to moderatly swift water. The Gold Magician pattern is an effective plug in clear water conditions (4'+ visibility). On plugs this small, the siwash hook gets the nod. A treble hook with enough gap and strength tends to dampen action excessively. (Unlike this picture, the tail split ring should be removed and the swivel directly connected to the screw eye.).
Hot Shot 40 Clear Mylar Insert
Hot Shot #40 Clear with Green Mylar Insert, Black Bill, and Scale
The # 40 hot shot is very similar to the Wee SE in performance, but without a rattle. You can use it in low and clear conditions or when fish are under heavy pressure as an alternative offering. I do not even know what the pattern is called (it is ancient), but with a black bill, black scale back, and limited flash, it can work well in high visibility conditions or when you want a subtle offering in moderately colored water. You will see these patterns on Ebay occasionally.
Wee Wiggle Wart Gold Flame Top
Wee Wart / Brad's Little Wiggler Gold Fire Top
The Wee Wart/Wee Steelie Wart/Brad’s Little Wiggler is one of the very best slow water plugs. It will dive well with good action in super slow currents. You will have to have you plug tuned well to run in moderate current and the whole thing is hopeless if you try to get them to run in anything moderately swift - they will keep popping up to the surface and lay there upside down. The merits of the pattern were discussed under the SE above. Note the belly hook rigging. If you run just a tail hook and have a hard time tuning it, try hanging a swivel or a treble hook shank (hooks cut off) from the belly hook station to improve balance and tuning.
Wiggle Wart Blue Pirate
Wiggle Wart / Brad's Wiggler Blue Pirate
A lot of people swear by Wiggle Warts / Brad’s Wigglers, I'm just not one of them. Perhaps I am just a victim of "too many plugs and too little time." They run best in slow to moderate flows. They are deep divers and as a consequence, I find that they hang up on the bottom more than other plugs, particularly in shallower drifts. The blue pirate pattern can be effective in a wide range of visibility conditions (2 to 5'+). Over 5' I would switch to something else, although blue pirate is not hopeless in clearer conditions. I think the green pirate pattern is not quite as effective in 2-3' of visibility, but works well in 3-4' of visibility. Even though my first fish on a plug was on a green pirate, I tend to prefer other patterns to the pirates. Note the marginal factory hooks that are typical of many plugs - toss 'em. Salmon, particularly silvers and chums, do have a certain affinity for wiggle warts. The chrome with black back is a standard offering when "bass mastering" (casting and retrieving) for salmon.
Mag Wart Flourescent Pink
Mag Wart / Brad's Magnum Wiggler Flourescent Pink
This is a go-to plug for poor visibility conditions (6-18" visibility). Few plugs make as much noise as a Mag Wart owing to the multitude of BB's they contain. It can also be an excellent plug for clearer conditions in large rivers if used in "quieter" colors. For a member of the Wart family, it runs very well over a wide variety of flows, but will produce a lot of drag on a medium weight rod in fast flows. Fluorescent pink is a very good pattern for low visibility conditions.
Clatter Tad Metalic Pink Black Head
Clatter Tad Metalic Pink Black Head
Clatter Tad's are the rattle version of Tadpollies. This is probably the best all around plug for steelhead (plug body, not necessarily the pattern). It has a pretty good wiggle in slow water and is stable in fast flows. It is big enough to work in 18" of visibility (with the right pattern), but no so large that it is overpowering in clearer conditions. The metallic pink/black head "doctor death" pattern is available from the factory on Clatter Tads, eliminating the need to paint your own. This is one of the best patterns for 18" to 4+ feet of visibility. Tadpollies can be a bit hard to find in the particular pattern you might desire, at times. More about that on the Plugs 201 page.
Tadpolly Clown
Tadpolly Clown
This Tadpolly has been converted to a Clatter Tad with the addition of a rattle (perhaps the topic of a future tip.) The clown pattern is a good low visibility color scheme with its contrasting fluorescent yellow and red painted pattern. Note the Gamakatsu EWG (extra wide gap) Treble Hook - These hooks have excellent holding power and are a good choice if you choose to use a trebble rather than a single hook.
Clatter Tad Metalic Blue Black Back
Clatter Tad Metalic Blue Black Back
While this plug has some potential in poor clarity, strong light conditions, it can produce well in 4-6' of visibility conditions.
Clatter Tad Nickle Plate Blue Scale
Clatter Tad Nickle Plate Blue Scale
This pattern is available in many lines (although not in Hot Shots currently) - the wiggler series presents as a blue herring bone. It can work well in clear water conditions, if it is an overcast day, and be surprisingly effective in water clarity as low as 20"” if there is bright sunshine.
Tadpolly Rainbow Trout
Tadpolly Rainbow Trout
I own one of these. I have rarely fished it, and never caught anything on it. There are / were people who swore by it, but I never gave it enough swimming time to ever dial it in. I don't even know why it is in here, except the funky hue of the metalic blue - it has a strong aqua / electric tint to it that is sort of unusual. Its kind of pretty, guess some fish thought so too, just not any I knew.
Clatter Tad Black Scale and Bill
Clatter Tad Black Scale and Bill
I have had a lot of success with the silver / black back Wee Warts in high visibility conditions, and made up this pattern for a Clatter Tad. I have not seen much in the way of low and clear water since I made it, but it will get its chance someday.
Clatter Tad Green Scale Black Bill
Clatter Tad Green Scale Back / Black Bill
Another test pattern I whipped up in the garage one evening, looking for a possible winner in the 4' + visibility range. If I ever fish it, I will have to post the results.
Grey Ghosts
Grey Ghosts
A couple of examples of what Luhr Jensen dubbed the Grey Ghost pattern - and if my memory fails me here, at least thats what I call them. This is an excellent gin clear pattern and if I have a choice, I would go no rattle. Next to impossible to find, but not too hard to make with a couple of cans of spray paint, a cop car starter plug and some veil material - air brush optional for this one.
Kwikfish K10 Gold Digger
Kwikfish K10 Gold Digger
The Kwikfish in sizes k9x –k11x, k10 –k12 and Flatfish in sizes f7-u20, can also be used for steelhead. Typically suited to slower current, they can provide a larger slow-water presence than some of the other options. Rattle availability in these styles of plugs, at these sizes, has been spotty in the past. Yes they work. Steelhead will even hit the larger k14-16's during salmon fisheries, but that is somewhat less fun than it could be all the way round.
Storm Hot n Tot Bait Diver
Actual Original Storm Hot 'N Tot
This is what an honest original Storm Hot 'N Tot looks (looked) like - the original butt kicking bait diver - notice the straight metal bill. The current purveyors of the Storm brand name would have you believe the original had a bent bill - not so. The bent bill was a feature of the Rattle Tot and I fear that what they are selling is really of the old Rattle Tot body design. Hey, I own some Rattle Tots, and even caught a few fish on them as plugs. They could work as a diver, but why step out on a chance - go Brad's and and get the almost-real, re-labeled, as-close-as- you're-gonna-get, original deal.
Marginal Plug Storage
Plugs Stored Marginaly for Travel
This plug box is at the marginal end of what I consider appropriate for plug care in travel. I prefer the option on the next photo, but you can burn up a lot of room trying to give every plug a home. Options include a bigger boat or fewer plugs. I have not followed the school of thought that says you need to line the bottom of your plug boxes to protect your plugs. Seems to me a pain, with hook snaggings, fungus and bad smells, as wet as thing often get – but that’s just me, and this box has a lot of the “B” team in it anyway. I do try to partition the compartments and fill them in such a way that the plugs are packed tightly and don’t rattle against each other in transit. Do not put you plugs loose in one big container and leave it in the bottom of the boat when you travel. If you do, you will have a new favorite plug - and its color will be a gritty white, and every time you open the box a small toxic cloud will billow out with what should have been the finish on your plugs.
Plugs Strored Well for Travel
Plugs Stored the Best Way
Once in awhile life works out. I bought a Plano box that had 5 storage boxes in the top lid section that perfectly fit my treasured tadpollies (Plano 3500's). The plugs wedge in there snuggly, one to a cubical. They do not slide or rattle around at all - Bliss. May you be as lucky in finding the perfect storage box for your favorite plugs.
Steelhead Plugs 201
STEELHEAD PLUGS 201
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